AMP repaired and tested, was a blown channel that blew so quickly and blew apart one dual emmiter resistor and the outputs. Unlikely the driver transistors or other components ever felt a thing so no further damage. Used the same part numbers (2 output transistors and one dual emitter resistor)
Original problem, it had an intermittent, it would just turn off then back on like the remote wire was loosing power.
The problem was from an edge mounted board that needed re-soldering.Ran the amp for a minimum of 5 hours, and checked for equal heating for all channels, nothing gets real hot (bias ok).
Banged around on the bench while playing to check for any other intermittents.
New and better soldering, re-soldered many of the factory solder joints that I always re-solder for certain parts (any equipment)
Improved the PC board ground, among other things to make it better than the stock factory work.
One divider on the terminal is broken and may allow wires to touch.I strongly recommend using spade type crimp connectors and not raw wires on the terminals so there will be no mistake !,
I will show a picture of that, and is no big deal at all.I do not like the way the terminal strip is and almost need to use some type of connectors for the ends of your wires.LOOKING at the terminal close to the fuse side you will see the broken plastic fin divides, so be careful hooking it up !
This amp has a very clean-quiet sound for some reason, and not artificially too punchy sounding, and is quite remarkable for a Majestic brand amp.(I can't believe I am complimenting a Majestic).
It just sounds really good for some reason. I ran it into two speakers in two channel stereo mode, it's just so clear and sounds better than many other more expensive amps. The gain controls need be set lower than other amps.
The gain control position is lower than I say it should sound, to be "normal". Not a problem, the input is a little more hot than usual but well within the standard range of use.
I say it is about 50watts RMS into 8 ohms each channel running in 4 channel mode.Also it does not include the high level input connector, using the RCA inputs is the best sound for any amp.
(don't believe any factory car audio amp rating specs you read these days they call this 400 watts)
But I would use this amp for 4 (6x9) coaxial (or triax) speakers and will sound very clear and still have enough power left over and last a long time.
This amp is Not for competition cranking but very good for a nice but simple 4 speaker (or two) installation.
It does pain me to not offer a warranty or not accept any return or refund on this. I would not post this and otherwise just have used it for parts. The original problem is solved and should now work much longer than if you bought it when it was new. If you want me to hook it up to a scope and show you it works, or even a video, but it indeed meets my standards.
Cosmetics: some scratches and marks, the mark on top in the center is scraped metal.I tried to preserve the color, it is not dense gold color, but is not silver either.
As much as I don't believe factory specifications for car amps, these are what I found on-line for this model.
400W Maximum (100W x 4)
65W RMS per Channel into 4 Ohms at 0.05% THD (20Hz-20KHz)
75W RMS per Channel into 2 Ohms at 1 % THD
300W RMS Bridged (150W x 2) into 4 Ohms at 1 % THD
Mosfet Power Supply
2 Ohm Stable
Signal to Noise Ratio >90dB
High/Low Level Inputs
2/3/4 Channel Operations with Mode Switch
Switchable High/Low Pass Dual Crossovers
5th and 6th Phantom Channels for Powering Center Speaker and Subwoofer
Circuit/Thermal Overload Protection
Gold Plated Terminals
Chassis Mounted Fuses
Dimensions W 9" x H 2" x D 16.75"
Shipping using USPS parcel post, inside USA only.
Repairing only audio since.(1978) (including a lot of car audio).